The Tamesis
“Injectable peptides could usher beauty and longevity rituals into a new era, but right now, we’re blindly struggling with confusion and misinformation,” said Suzanne Scott, associate director of global beauty at PR and strategy firm Seen Group. “There’s simply not enough testing or regulation.”
First, brands that have long used topical peptides in their products should be more outspoken to capitalize on the buzz surrounding this catch-all term. “We’ll probably see them mentioned more on packaging, as the word ‘peptide’ will almost certainly become a word that consumers associate with longevity,” Scott said. “[Conumers] They may not fully understand what a peptide is and what it does, they just associate it with beauty innovation, efficacy and results. “
“Topicality [peptides] Dr. Lamees Hamdan, founder of Dubai-based wellness brand Cosmic Doctor, said: “They have been around for years and new products are launched every few months. They tend to be expensive, driving up the cost of skincare.” But even the new peptides haven’t been tested for a long time, so we don’t know if their results are consistent. “
Michael Ingrassia, Ph.D., vice president of advanced technologies, global research and innovation at The Estée Lauder Companies (ELC), said that while topical products may not replicate injectables, advances in injectable science have been prompting ELC scientists to think about ingredients that could provide alternatives in the cosmetics space, as well as the necessary stability, compatibility, bioavailability and delivery. “The real opportunity lies in finding ways to translate complex biology into cosmetic forms that are stable, safe and provide advanced visible skin benefits. Ingredients like this are already shaping the next generation of skin care research,” he said.
Roberts, the lecturer, said it could take 5 to 15 years and cost millions of dollars to bring a peptide into clinical trials because they cannot be patented unless a new activity is discovered. “if [brands] If they can’t patent it, they can’t make money back,” he said.
What’s next for the brand
The risks of peptides are still not fully understood. But for brands conducting their own peptide research, there are potential growth opportunities ahead.
Dr. Anita Sturnham, founder of skin care brand Decree, says injectable peptides and their properties are closer to market than many people realize. “While regulations remain strict, these compounds can now be used in clinical settings on a rigorous trial basis,” she said. “I expect that within the next five years injectable and inhaled peptides will establish a solid presence in the medical aesthetic and clinical aesthetic space, with wider consumer market applications as the evidence base grows.”
Brands that start exploring peptides in research and development (R&D) laboratories will take the lead in terms of market share. Recent FDA considerations indicate that the regulatory landscape is likely to change as the science evolves. Shares of digital health company Hims & Hers were up 12% as of Wednesday’s announcement. The company has a peptide factory that it scaled up last year and has built a reputation in the health space addressing weight loss, hair loss and libido issues. When asked for comment, the company’s chief medical officer, Dr. Patrick Carroll, said Hims & Hers is “actively exploring ways to expand access in a manner that is consistent with FDA guidance and reflects our commitment to consumer safety, transparency and clinical excellence.”
