The Tamesis
From distressed western denim shirts to fringed sliced leather belted skirts to camel coats with contrasting collars and politely punk-style checked trousers, many pieces in Maria Grazia Chiuri’s first early spring collection as Fendi’s creative captain were presented as duos. These are often placed on female and male models within the same lookbook frame, often in complementary oppositional positions, provoking reflections on wearer and viewer, subject and object.
Chiuri said from the beginning of last season that this shared wardrobe would become the cornerstone of her transformation of Fendi. As a frequent victim of her husband’s closet raids, and someone who borrows many items from him, she believes a shared wardrobe is more realistic rather than radical. You can also surmise from the looks in the eyes of the models in their mirrored outfits that mutual attraction, with a hint of narcissism, is also at play.
The designer describes the wardrobe and the collection as a “modernist idea, with extremely practical clothes and extremely straight lines.” We saw the return of Chiuri’s almost Vitruvian silhouette (a high-centered X) in long evening dresses and skirted jackets. Despite some pops of color, she emphasized the restraint of the palette and seemed more moved by the contrast between the off-white “parchment” tones, the house in the bags and skins, and the overwhelming black visible in this barely lit lookbook.
Through the gloomy atmosphere, you could deduce that fur had been given Fendi’s signature grip, as seen in woven fur jackets in contrasting colors, leather coats with more fur tracks on the collars, and bags and shoes with fur patches. Chiuri said that combining fur with other materials (mesh, lace, leather) embodies a sensuality, which she believes is an essential element of Fendi but is often underrepresented on the runway. She said: “We should not forget that the company was born from fur, and fur itself already has an idea of softness, an idea of sensuality.”
In a chat, Chiuri noted that she was interested in the evolution of the middle class as generations of idealized and authentic work attire evolved. Quoting Visconti, she was curious about the luster of hair and general sophistication of protagonists in 1970s movies compared to today. In addition to a shared wardrobe, Chiuri highly recommends an adult wardrobe – one that lasts for a long time. She added: “Another thing that really interests me is that each client can build their own Fendi wardrobe bit by bit; not necessarily giving up pieces from the last season, but keeping them in continuity with the new season so they can coexist.”
