The Tamesis
For Dean and Dan Caten of Dsquared2, the idea of Italian summer is the basis for their Resort 2027 collection. But that alone was too basic, so the duo reinterpreted it from a Canadian perspective, leaning into dualities expressed through the constant juxtaposition between high and low culture references, as well as a nod to the duo’s typically irreverent attitude. As a result, the rigorous tailoring of the ’80s is now infused with a denim attitude, while traditional silhouettes become playful and sexy. Mixture is a signature feature of the brand and a theme that runs through both men’s and women’s offerings.
The menswear collection opens with party-worthy glam pieces like tuxedos and silk pajamas, as well as denim pieces covered in sheer sequins for a sparkly feel. This was followed by a collection of bespoke casual gray and beige suits paired with blazers, reinterpreting the stereotype of Italian male elegance with subtle irony. The mixed theme was all in the details: a pair of sleeves on a shirt that seemed to have another piece tying gorgeously over the shoulders, or a trench coat with denim panels, or a blazer component, all cleverly mixed together. Brightly colored sections give a sporty feel, thanks to references to retro aesthetics, American preparation and Paninari——The youth subculture of the 1980s——Code.
Denim has always been at the heart of Dsquared2, and this season further confirms that; a highlight is the women’s jean suit, which features strategic tears to reveal the terry lining. Another strong concept is thin knitted separates, some with a funky attitude and others with a preppy edge, conveying a feel reminiscent of college quads through bold colorful stripes. The mix of styles continues here too: the skirt is made from MA-1 bomber jacket components, and the skinny black blazer has added denim jacket cuff details, available in a two-button option. A lace-trimmed silk skirt was paired with a sleeveless top emblazoned with sarcastic Italian phrases (e.g. Il sole bacia i belli) Adds a touch of flirty, cheeky flair.
The collection also includes an eclectic range of accessories, including the new Roxy Bag with multiple belts, Cosmo heeled sandals inspired by cocktail stems, and mules inspired by baseball cap buckles. All in all, sexy, fun, and very Dsquared2.
