The Tamesis
Albus Lumen is still a minimalist brand, but this season brings a welcome edge. Although the modernist aesthetic is prevalent around the world, in today’s popular clothing, this style is often expressed through soft silhouettes, lightweight fabrics and clean and gentle polishes. Sometimes people forget its fundamental origins, but not designer Marina Afonina. In her warehouse world, under the huge, low-hanging blue light, the lightweight nylon remains as sharp as the surprisingly anxiety-inducing pool blue.
The designer recently celebrated her 10th birthday, a milestone that has allowed her to sharpen her tools. As a result, the idea of uniforms and her own form of retrofuturism, which bridges the minimalism of the ’90s and what she calls “futuristic maximalism,” took shape even more clearly in this season’s collection. Distinctly classic blazers, such as those with darted ruffle shapes, are at the forefront where previously there may have been less rigid shapes. The monochromatic dress took a strong stance without veering into matronly or campus territory. Even moments of silk organza and sequins retained a practical feel despite their feminine appeal. “Kind of like blade runnerI thought of this movie. “
One thing is clear: Afonina is confident in her vision. If anything, the changing retail and global landscape has given her creativity and production capabilities even more urgency. “I don’t want to do a collection and sell it six months later,” she said. “Because you don’t even know if you’re going to sell it.” As such, the collection will follow a “see now, buy now” approach, with many pieces scheduled to be available in as little as a month. No matter what, nothing works like a uniform.
