The Tamesis
Last season, Kenzo artistic director Nigo more fully embraced the legacy of brand founder Kenzo Takada, showing the collection in the designer’s home, a Japanese oasis in the heart of Paris where he lived for more than 15 years. As my astute colleague Luke Leitch observed at the time: “There’s a change in the air at Kenzo.”
Back at the Vivian Street showroom, today’s visit revealed more changes taking place – connecting the past and the future in new ways. Most notably and meaningfully, the brand restored Takata’s actual logo. Those of a certain age may remember when he wrote and signed invitations to his shows, and the same smooth, cursive “Kenzo” is now emblazoned on slingbacks and patch pockets. As one representative explained, the signature reminds us of “The Hand Behind the Scenes,” and it’s combined with the clever monogram that debuted last season (two Ks back to back) that will be instantly recognizable whether used alone or repeated.
But it’s not just updated branding on display. From hooded denim jackets to go-to work suits to remixed college uniforms, the clothes have a cool feel that can be attributed to Nigo’s influence, making them more effortless and more wearable. Letterman jackets are American and Parisian in varying degrees. Tie-dye style florals adorn denim and standout transitional trench coats; men’s officer jackets and women’s collarless jackets highlight how tailoring can take on different and versatile forms.
One of the sub-seasons – with three shows in October, November and March – is designed to express Nigo’s passion for ceramics, with a focus on textures, craft elements and earthy tones (his handmade creations are currently on display in a retrospective at London’s Design Museum). As with all the wintery down jackets and cozy knits, many pieces are seasonless, like a smart fireman jacket with metal buckles and a lighter layer with soft pecan stripes.
Other talking points: The yellow and black “Tigger” graphic depicted on the side, and the archival “Kenzo Work & Play” logo, which, come to think of it, sums up the overall attitude of this first pre-collection since Nigo’s 2021 signing. Between denim shapes and treatments—as interpreted from his own archives—the everyday Kenzo Rush sneaker and the new nylon Kenzo Janguru bag, there were suddenly more entry points for the brand, worth rediscovering. Kenzo is rumored to be planning not just one show during men’s fashion week, but various events worth exploring.
