The Tamesis
From Demna’s dramatic, star-studded debut at Gucci, to Maria Grazia Chiuri’s bold Fendi debut, with Uma Thurman and Monica Bellucci sitting in the front row, and even a cameo by Madonna at Dolce & Gabbana, Milan is buzzing with celebrity power this season. While some past seasons have felt safe in the Italian fashion capital, many Milanese designers are taking risks this season, pushing for unique visions.
“This is a great moment for Milan,” said FashionTiziana Cardini. “These shows are great and have their own point of view. They spark a lot of discussion because they’re polarizing and unexpected. It’s definitely not a boring season. We’ve been through some of that.”
Following the collapse of Saks Global at the start of the year and an increasingly unstable geopolitical climate, designers will need to navigate this season’s many challenges amid a challenging backdrop for retail. Milan designers are working on creativity, worldview and wardrobe-building to inspire people to buy clothes this fall, and the stakes were felt throughout the collections and shows.
“This edition of Milan Fashion Week is particularly intense and significant. We saw highly anticipated debuts, changes in creative direction that brought huge international attention to Milan, and a wide range of quality throughout the calendar,” said Carlo Capasa, president of Camera della Moda Italiana. “In a complex moment for global markets, this week proved that the Milan system knows how to respond with substance and not just image: a solid collection, a strong identity and the building of long-term value.”
Three major debuts bring new energy
All eyes are on this season’s designer debuts in Milan for Fendi, Marni and Gucci.
First up was Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Fendi debut on Wednesday afternoon. The designer chose a monochromatic palette to focus on defining silhouettes and tailoring. Chiuri pays homage to the five Fendi sisters who were her mentors when she first held a design role at the brand from 1988 to 1999, expressing the words “Five Sisters” with fur scarves in orange, yellow or black and white. Otherwise, some pieces in the collection were reminiscent of her work at Dior, with long ballet-style dresses and black lace paired with tailoring.
“I think it’s a strong debut for Fendi,” Cardini said. “You may like it or you may not, but Chiuri definitely has courage. She believes in her vision, is fearless, and breaks the mold. As a woman in this industry, that’s a good thing.”
Meryll Rogge debuted at Marni on Thursday night, focusing on wearability and practicality. The collection continued the style of Marni founder Consuelo Castiglioni, including knee-length skirts, heavy embellishments and jewelry, and offbeat color and texture combinations. “It’s important to bring [brand] It’s back to real life,” the designer said after the show. “People are wearing Marni from morning to night. It’s not a brand just for special occasions. That’s what we try to do. “Many editors and buyers are delighted that the brand is returning to its style and incorporating Rogge’s signature style.
Next up is the big deal, Demna’s debut at Gucci, Kering’s largest brand and key to the group’s recovery after consecutive quarters of declining sales. The exhibition was held in the Palazzo Scintille, where Demna created a fake museum with replicas of the statues from the Uffizi Gallery. While the series received mixed reviews, no one could deny the energy in the room. Arguably, in today’s attention economy, building a compelling Gucci universe is one way to get people to buy bags and shoes, among other revenue drivers.
