The Tamesis
When the internet asks you to slather zinc oxide on your face, you can’t help but wonder why. The thick, white cream has long been considered the Hail Mary of skincare, tackling everything from rashes to acne and sun protection, but it’s never been glamorous, but it can be effective. In true TikTok fashion, the ingredient has now been rebranded as a nighttime beauty ritual, with creators slathering on a layer of opaque, chalky paste in hopes of having calmer, clearer, and glowing skin in the morning. But is it worth the rise? This is what the experts say.
As trilogist and physician Dr. Zeba Umar points out, zinc is a skin-friendly mineral known for its calming, healing, and anti-inflammatory properties. In skin care, it is commonly used to control oil, reduce acne, soothe irritation and support the skin barrier. “Traditionally, zinc oxide has been used in everything from diaper rash creams to sunscreens because it protects and calms the skin well, which is why it remains a staple ingredient in dermatology and cosmetic skincare products today,” she says.
PCA zinc and zinc oxide
Oculoplastic surgeon Dr. Maryam Zamani says that when added to skin care products, the most common forms of zinc are zinc oxide and zinc PCA, which each serve different functions. “Zinc oxide is a mineral compound that forms a protective interface on the skin, reflecting UV radiation and reducing environmental aggressors. It has long been used in dermatology for its calming, barrier-enhancing and wound-healing properties,” she explains.
“Zinc PCA is more bioactive, affecting sebum regulation and microbial balance. Traditionally, zinc has been associated with repair, protection and control, especially in damaged or reactive skin conditions. It is not a transformative ingredient in an aesthetic sense, but it is fundamental to stabilizing skin function.”
Why zinc?
First let’s talk about the benefits. Zinc may be one of the most underrated skin care ingredients, according to experts, and it does a lot without the noise. “Its benefits stem from its ability to restore balance,” says Dr. Zamani. It is anti-inflammatory, has antibacterial properties, regulates sebum production, and more.
In addition, zinc oxide provides broad-spectrum physical photoprotection—an important pillar of collagen protection. “Essentially, zinc doesn’t directly create glow; it creates the conditions for healthy skin to function optimally,” she says.
The appeal of this “overnight” trend lies in its instant gratification. After just one use, skin appears calmer, less irritated, and visibly more even—an immediate effect that, honestly, makes our fast-paced world excited. “I think there’s been a resurgence in this trend because people are now leaning more towards skin restoration rather than aggressive skin care,” notes Dr. Omar. Still, she cautions that “more doesn’t mean better.” While a thin layer can help support the skin barrier, applying too much thick zinc cream every day may feel too heavy for skin types and, ironically, may clog the pores of oily skin types.
For Dr. Zamani, the skin doesn’t respond well to blanket solutions. According to her, zinc works best when used consciously, rather than as a nightly habit for everyone. “Beautiful, healthy skin isn’t about quieting things down overnight; it’s about supporting the skin so it can function better over time,” she adds.
potential side effects
The downside to using zinc cream as an overnight mask is that while making your skin look calmer, it may also reveal issues beneath the surface. “Using a thick zinc cream too often can clog pores, make them feel too clogged, or trigger breakouts, especially on oily or acne-prone skin,” Dr. Omar says. He notes that some formulas, especially those with added acids or fragrances, can also irritate sensitive skin. After all, these creams were originally intended as a short-term fix for skin inflammation, blemishes, and diaper rash.
