The Tamesis
Adolfo Dominguez
Spain may not have the biggest fashion industry in the world, but gosh, it does have a huge influence on the major fashion dynasties: Zara and the Ortega family; Mango, from the Andique family; and, of course, Adolfo Dominguez, the fashion label founded by the Dominguez family in 1950 as a tailoring company and later as a designer label in 1976, when General Franco died and his fascist regime ended. As Spain emerges from dark decades and emerges in a rapidly transforming country, the Adolfo Dominguez brand, spanning three generations, is thriving. I remember the 1980s: you’d see the brand’s soft, simple, smartly British pleated tailoring Fashion or in Faceyou also saw it on Don Johnson’s Crockett miami vice He dukes it out with Uzi-toting drug lords, kisses Sheena Easton, and tangles with voodoo high priestess Esa Kit. (The last purely exciting high camp: no remarks.)
Dominguez started slow fashion almost before anyone else, and this was highlighted at the 50th anniversary co-ed show at the end of the first day of the 080 Barcelona Fashion Calendar, where Dominguez himself was honored by Barcelona Mayor Jaume Collboni and Presidential Minister Albert Damau.
The clothes are great because they look authentic and meaningful, and are done with a quiet conviction that echoes the enviable unpretentious attitude I’ve noticed among Barcelona’s most fashionable residents. The collection was designed by Adolfo’s daughter, creative director Tiziana Dominguez, and her sister, Adriana Dominguez, is the brand’s executive president. (“We keep everything at home—like succession” Adriana quipped before the show.) Tiziana Wearing soft, casual jackets and shirts, they were cut to drape. She layered these coats with handmade knits or asymmetrical skirts with linear fringes that moved gently as the model walked—walking, by the way, in some great soft loafers with oversized leather panels that matched the subtly slouchy and effortless spirit. At the same time, the casting reminded me of the brand’s ’80s slogan, Even wrinkles are beautiful. They were talking about clothes at the time, but it was echoed by some elegant and gaunt guys on the catwalk – which gave me hope.
Tessel Millas
While I had no idea what to expect from Txell Miras, I preferred her collection, which featured clean, linear wools, cotton poplins, neoprenes, knits and jerseys in beiges, grays and greys. Sleeveless jackets with high shoulders, soft narrow skirts and tops with tapering sleeves were only decorated with line drawings of mating couples in various poses. (There may be too many positions, I lost count on the 60th time.)
