The Tamesis
Federico Bruno’s recent trip to Mongolia impressed him not only with its picturesque scenery but also with its extreme simplicity. Among local nomadic communities, he observed a life without undue burdens: few possessions, no reliance on social media, and constant mobility with extended family. “They seem to know how to let go,” he said. “They look at you as if you’re poor because they’re so proud of everything they do.”
This sense of quiet dignity became the conceptual backbone of Bruno’s autumn lectures, held within the fencing school. Models slowly drifted across the carpet, taking off Mordecai jackets and shawls as they went, letting them fall to the floor, only for the next model to pick them up and move on. Clothes are released, but not wasted. “There is an art to letting go,” Bruno reflects, “and we in the West are not well trained to practice it.”
To make the ritual shedding of Mordecai piuminos no longer an exercise, Bruno is making them lighter this season, both literally and figuratively. Volume has been trimmed, silhouettes slimmed down, and what was once a bulbous padding became more streamlined. What remains is a clearer emphasis on functionality and practicality, distilled from the previously majestic, almost architectural appearance.
Still, the technical prowess Bruno honed during his time at Moncler has not disappeared. On the contrary, the structure remains very clever, the functional solutions are carefully designed, and the exploration of textures is both complex and refreshing. In short: lighter jacket, heavyweight technology.
