The Tamesis
Editor’s Note: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana launched their first Dolce & Gabbana collection in 1985. To commemorate their 40th anniversary in fashion, and as part of Vogue Runway’s ongoing effort to chronicle the history of fashion shows, we’re adding two new digital shows from their ’90s heyday to the site through the end of 2025. The Spring 1996 collection was launched on October 8, 1995 in Milan.
Imagine a girl from Ipanema, only transported to Palermo and filtered through a Dolce & Gabbana lens – that’s what Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s Spring 1996 collection was all about. Among their works, this is one of their most minimalist performances, with a lot of drab looks.
Linda Evangelista opened the show with a sleeveless hooded knitted post, carrying a straw basket that looked like the very definition of resort, Southern Italian style. What followed were iterations of the look, each showing more skin with side slits and even higher hems. The shorter the clothes, the closer you are to God? The smallest of them is equipped with a cross, as if waiting for confession.
Suits look summery when paired with midriff-baring tops, while fedoras contrast with snoods and chin-tied headscarves. The most surprising are the nautical styles – navy, white or striped. These managed to find their way into animal prints (towards the end of the show), paired with floral beaded pieces that had a vintage feel. So did a series of black looks with tulle ruffles at the hems.
