The Tamesis
Although Carven announced Mark Thomas’ departure in April, the designer graciously returned via video for a virtual walkthrough of his final collection. The collection was pre-fall, meaning the looks largely laid the groundwork for the confident runway collection he showed during Paris Fashion Week earlier this year. Here, he focused on transitional dressing: the first jackets and coats (from more rounded, enveloping shapes to more masculine double-breasted structures) and airy silhouettes built around a delicate fusion of organza and lace. Below-the-knee leather skirts and various applications of shearling lend a sense of lean luxury, while fringed knits and coordinating separates in crisp cedar brown accentuate an effortless feel. “I’ve been thinking about who the Carven woman is; where she’s going, where she’s wearing these pieces,” Thomas said, citing Look 4 in particular, a chic black suit paired with an off-white scarf. “She is Parisian at heart, I think [the collection] Meet that woman’s needs. “The way the dark denim folds at the waist (inspired by orchids), and the gray flannel trousers with elasticated ankles, are unique design tweaks that women may want, too.
From 2023, when Louise Trotter debuted at Carven behind the scenes of Thomas, until 2025, when Thomas was promoted to artistic director, the brand painted a completely different vision than its previous contemporary iteration. If this were a childhood game of hot and cold, series tended to get warm, then cool, then warm again, and Thomas might have given Cavan a warmer edge and more time to develop his vision. In April, parent company ICCF (owner of Icicle) entered into a strategic partnership with Kering, which may (or may not) determine the next steps for the brand located at 6 Champs-Elysées. This means that, for now, the brand’s creative vision is at a standstill.
Despite these behind-the-scenes machinations, Thomas remains resourceful and positive as he moves on. “I am so grateful for this experience. I am grateful to Ms. and Mr. Shauna Tao. [Shouzeng] your experience. I think what we’ve done is really put the brand back on the fashion map. People are talking about the brand. This is relevant. This is desirable. I think it’s wearable,” he explained. “They want to take a brand somewhere else, but I don’t agree with that, and it’s time for me to step back and let them take the brand in that direction. But I feel very honored. My team and the people I work with – you know, it takes an army to do this, it really does. “
