The Tamesis
On a cold night in a warehouse in Tokyo Bay, Kamiya’s performance was somewhere between a fashion show and a concert. Nigerian-American rapper Tobi Lou performed live on the catwalk, providing the soundtrack: “Can’t kill me, I’m a bad bitch,” one of the songs sang.
The music complements the costumes, embodying Kamiya’s famous street attitude. Glossy nylon MA-1 bombers with faux fur collars were paired with track pants and tailoring, and models carried leather bags emblazoned with gold Kamiya monograms, signaling a commercial push. Launched in 2023 under Mihara Yasuhiro’s company SOSU, Kamiya has a lot in common with Yasuhiro’s namesake label and its intentionally chaotic streetwear, but is grittier and more forthright.
As always, the hallmarks of grunge were present throughout: ragged long cardigans, brushed cotton plaid flannel shirts, and baggy patchwork jeans paired with belt chains. What feels fresh is the injection of sexiness that Kamiya has been playing with since last season. He introduced shirting for spring, along with some casual, collarbone-baring tailoring to liven up the mix, plus denim wrap skirts to complicate the silhouette to interesting effect. Branded boxer shorts peek out from low-rise knee-length jeans, while a faded hoodie and nubuck leather are exposed.
“I wanted to create something sexy for men. How should I put it?” the designer thought for a moment. “It’s about pursuing a masculinity that comes from within, rather than trying to look cool on social media.” This sentiment feels like a balm at a time when mainstream masculinity on social media (at least in the West) surrounds increasingly toxic male spaces online.
