‘The Sale of the 21st Century’: Inside the Dior Masterpieces Auction

One of the strongest collections from Dior’s haute couture collection went under the hammer in a three-hour auction at Le Bristol Hotel in Paris on Thursday. “Dior Masterpieces: Mouna Ayoub Haute Couture Collection” auction features approximately 95 lots belonging to the long-time fashion client.

“This could be the auction of the 21st century,” said Salomé Pirson, co-founder of Maurice Auction and Kerry Taylor Auctions. The auction totaled more than 6.19 million euros, breaking the world record for high-end fashion auctions, as well as the world records for works by Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano and Raf Simons. “Unfortunately we didn’t break the record for a Marc Bohan piece because the previous auction was part of the Elizabeth Taylor collection, so there was a celebrity factor,” Pearson said. What about the work of Maria Grazia Chiuri? “There was only one Maria Grazia dress at the auction and because they were recent, I still fit it,” Ayoub quipped.

The French-Lebanese businesswoman and Dior collector didn’t sell everything. “I’ve kept a lot of Maria Grazia and John Galliano pieces over the past few years,” she says. On Thursday, she wore a Chiuri-designed T-shirt that paid homage to Galliano’s original fall/winter 2000 newspaper print. (This week, she bought an embroidered black couture dress from Jonathan Anderson for her first show at Dior.)

“This is a once-in-a-lifetime sale,” said the energetic auctioneer Marie-Laurence Tixier, who co-founded Maurice Auction with Pirson and was at the auctioneer’s podium throughout the sale.

A painted silk evening gown from Galliano’s Spring/Summer 2000 collection “Clachards” or “Homeless” sells for 510,000 euros after expenses. Another highlight is a black taffeta evening dress from the same collection, priced at 420,000 euros (excluding fees). “Both are iconic,” Ayoub said. “The Clochards collection made waves. Everyone hated it. I bought the whole collection; I just loved it. This black dress with the wine bottle hanging from it was the piece that everyone in Paris was talking about. I wore it to Elton John’s 70th birthday party and the closing ceremony of the Cannes Film Festival. It’s the only dress I’ve worn twice,” Ayoub said.

Image may contain clothing, dresses, adults, wedding wear, fashion accessories, jewelry, necklaces, hats and faces

Painted silk evening gown, Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2000 Haute Couture Collection (Cover No. 39). This Galliano dress sells for 510,000 euros after fees.

Photo: (LR) George Mavrikos, Getty Images

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