The Tamesis
For next season, Rabanne creative director Julien Dossena decided to tone things down a bit while still incorporating a festive feel. Maybe that’s why instead of calling it a straight pre-collection, he titled it “Women’s, Party ’26 and Spring.”
“It’s a bit of a reaction to the industry,” the designer said. “Yes, fashion can be cinematic and can be an escape, but my impression is that it’s always The Hunger Games, with more beautiful women wearing prettier clothes, and the outside world being questionable.”
His response was to try to find a middle path that didn’t rely on mood boards, muses or overarching stories, but rather a piece-by-piece philosophy based on “pragmatism, reality and ease.” At the same time, sparkling mesh, silver fringe or faux fur were seen at parties, and especially some very interesting disco accessories.
Perhaps there is no more basic piece than a pair of well-tailored black wool trousers. Here, the designers have styled these styles differently, including a wool single-breasted coat and fringed scarf in grey, black and white; a copper mesh T-shirt with cape sleeves trimmed with stone; or paired with an olive green mesh draped halterneck dress with crystal trim. Other sartorial cornerstones were inspired by conversations with friends: one who wanted perfect 70s style, rather than the grunge vibes that have come out these days; another wanted a pair of “half-boyfriend” jeans in an alternative color; and a third wanted a loose-fitting belted jacket that was masculine enough, or an ivory trench coat with puffed sleeves that could be rolled up and out of the way.
During her 13 years as Rabanne’s creative director, Dossena kept the brand in the conversation by inferring chainmail, rose gold and various other brand signatures from every angle. This season, he said he’s aiming for another perspective. Take, for example, a chocolate-colored knit dress with a deep V-neckline and low waist. The hem was embroidered with thin strips of violet flowers that seemed to fan out all the way to the lower hem. The contradiction between sharpness and sparseness is the point. Another type: a khaki knitted dress paired with a silver fringed skirt. The upper body is handsome and the lower body is fashionable. “As a designer, working with tense qualities is what interests me,” Dossena points out.
Rabanne has been synonymous with cool girl nighttime wear for decades. So the whole trick is to push that particularity into the light. Here, Dossena gamely presented a casual ensemble, a khaki jacket paired with an ivory button-down shirt and carpenter pants (an idea that also appeared in a “futuristic skate” shorts version). Dossena noted that he saw an “impressionistic chainmail” look in the “Liberty” print, paired with a sage pantsuit or an ivory shift dress.
“The idea of studying modernity is an all-encompassing concept, but for me it reflects a certain reality,” notes the designer. “It’s about looking at the women around us and finding something that resonates with their lives.” Through this collection, Dossena offers Rabanne clients a variety of cross-currents. It will be interesting to see how she chooses to navigate them.
