The Tamesis
Paul Smith, Gabriella HearstJoJo Korsh/BFA.com
Gabriela Hearst and Sir Paul Smith took over the penthouse at Chateau Marmont to celebrate the launch of their limited-edition collaboration, attracting an eclectic crowd that included Jessica Alba, John Boyega, Edward Norton, Quinta Brunson Brunson, Michael Stipe, Diplo, Tom Parker Bowles and Mamie Gummer.
On the surface, the Uruguayan designer and the British fashion maven might seem like an unlikely pair. Unfortunately, the two were connected by a mutual friend, Wesley Schultz of The Lumineers, who felt they would hit it off. They became pen pals at first, exchanging notes on each other’s work, and then one day, via text message, the idea for a collaboration came up. “It’s not a big plan,” Smith told Fashion. “In today’s world, everything is so corporate and homogeneous. It’s like, ‘Should we do something fun together?'”
Smith was inspired by a box of old photos from his father. As an amateur photographer, his photos of the Welsh mountains were faded by time and decades of storage. “I described them in my mind as Godard’s films,” Smith said. “It’s a little hazy, a little in focus, a little out of focus; they have a very surreal quality to them.” For Hirst, who grew up on a ranch and was influenced by her grandmother, these images immediately resonated and became the cohesive force of the series.
The result is 14 separates for men and women, transplanting retro visuals onto silk trench coats, bias-cut slip dresses, intarsia cashmere sweaters and virgin wool straight-grain suiting. Nappa leather Nina and Demi bags are also landscaped. “The color is everything“, Hirst noted. “Working with a master, these images already speak volumes. You can see them in embroidered intarsia, hand-knitted into cashmere sweaters, and then also on suits. “The sweaters in question are hand-knitted by Manos del Uruguay, a non-profit cooperative that supports the economic independence of women in rural communities, and are a direct reflection of Hearst’s long-standing commitment to responsible production.
Guests sat down to tables draped in white linens and hung with colorful Louis Poulsen lamps to enjoy a rooftop dinner of fritters, beet salad and lemon pasta. A Manos del Uruguay cashmere blanket hangs from the back of each chair. Quinta Brunson summed it up in a slip dress and trench coat. “It’s the simplicity and care of Gabriela’s work, but with the color and sparkle that Paul has always done. It’s been a really magical collaboration and I’ve been complimented on my clothes about 20 times.”
As they ate, the collection was already flowing—several pieces in the boutique had sold out that day. When the last piece of tiramisu disappeared and the party dispersed, Hearst told everyone to put their napkins in their pockets – as they were also emblazoned with images from the series. “Paul had the joy of a child and the humility of one of the great men,” Hirst praised her collaborator as she kissed him on the cheek and said goodbye. “He was one of the first punks.”
