The Tamesis
There’s a reason why oval engagement rings are a modern classic. The versatile diamond cut (named for the stone’s long, round shape) is a beautiful choice for couples looking for a timeless option that can have a very fashion-forward edge. No wonder it has been the ring of choice for stylish celebrity brides like Lady Gaga, Phoebe Tonkin, Hailey Bieber and Kourtney Kardashian. If you are considering this popular cut for your own engagement ring, or want to purchase one for your partner, it is important to understand the many aspects of this brilliant diamond.
Next, we’ll break down everything you need to know about an oval engagement ring, from how to evaluate its 4Cs to choosing the perfect setting for your stone.
What is an oval diamond?
Oval diamonds are unusually shaped gemstones known for their rounded edges and attractive, elongated appearance. Similar to round cut diamonds, oval diamonds have a brilliant faceted style that gives them extra luster and reflective qualities. However, its larger aspect ratio allows it to be spread across the finger.
What’s so special about an oval cut?
There’s a reason oval engagement rings are so popular. “Oval shapes have all the sparkle of a classic round diamond, but with a little more attitude,” Jenny Chung Seeger, founder of Eliette and No. 3 Fine Jewelry, says of the stone. “Their silhouette is softer and more directional, elongating the hand in a very flattering way. There’s a sense of movement to the shape—it feels romantic and modern at the same time.”
when you able Look for vintage oval cut gemstones, which are a relatively new shape. “Slender diamond cuts have been around for centuries, and as early as the 18th century, cutters began experimenting with oval profiles as they learned how to shape the rough crystal more creatively,” says Chung Seeger. “But the oval shape we recognize today was refined in the late 1950s by legendary cutter Lazare Kaplan, who devised a brilliant facet pattern that gives the shape its signature shine. This cut is both historic and contemporary, rooted in Old World craftsmanship but refined by mid-century innovation.”
If you are looking for a less traditional engagement ring, other gemstones are also available in oval cuts. Princess Diana famously wore an oval-cut sapphire ring surrounded by a halo of diamonds. The ring is now worn by her daughter-in-law, Kate Middleton.
Photo: Courtesy of Normani
How to evaluate the 4C criteria for oval cuts
When buying diamonds, you need to understand the 4Cs determined by GIA. These cut, color, clarity and carat size gradings affect the overall quality and price of the stone. “With oval shapes, visual balance and symmetry of the stone are critical. GIA does not provide cut grades for fancy (non-round) shapes, so it’s all about finding even sparkle,” explains Chung Seeger.
If you want to find the jewelry that best fits your budget, jewelers say there are a few grades you should prioritize. “In elongated shapes, the color can show a little more, so I recommend going a little higher than in one-on-one shapes,” she shares. “Clarity tends to be more forgiving, and carat weight often feels amplified because the shape has so much surface area. If I had to choose one, I would prioritize carat weight over clarity!”
How to choose a style and settings
While the stone itself can have a huge impact on the look of an engagement ring, the way it’s set can give it a design perspective. “Ovals are very versatile,” says Chung Seeger. “A simple solitaire feels fresh and modern, while a sculptural or directional setting can really accentuate the movement of the stone.” How you set it up depends on your own preference. The oval can be placed vertically on a solid ring for a clean, classic look, or it can be anchored with side stones to add width and shine to the ring. You might also consider framing your oval with a halo of diamonds or other gemstones, or wrapping it in a thick, protective gold or platinum setting. East-west settings are also popular for oval diamonds with more modern edges.
Other tips and considerations
Not every oval shape is the same, so it’s important to have your preferences clear before purchasing a ring. For example, the ideal aspect ratio for an oval diamond with a more traditional shape is between 1.4 and 1.5, according to GIA. Lower proportions will give a rounder feel. “The aspect ratio creates a diamond’s personality,” explains Chung Seeger. “The more elongated oval shape gives a dramatic feel, while the slightly fuller proportions appear softer and more classic.”
You should also consider how to avoid the bowtie effect of the oval diamond you choose for your engagement ring. The bowtie effect is when you look at a gemstone, some of the light reflected from the facets of the gemstone is blocked, creating a dark bowtie shape in the center. While it’s impossible to completely avoid it, well-cut gemstones can minimize this phenomenon. Chung Seeger said she advises clients to observe how the stone moves in light. “The oval on the right has a quiet brilliance that you notice immediately,” she said.
