The Tamesis
“When Taylor Swift launched her beautiful old mine-cut diamonds, I think every jewelry dealer in the world was delighted,” says antique jewelry expert Catherine Taylor, a buying partner at Sandra Cronan in London who specializes in rare, unusual and eclectic gemstones. Now, it’s old news that when Swift announced her engagement to American football star Travis Kelce in August 2025, wearing a bezel ring with a jaw-dropping antique diamond designed by Kindred Lubeck of Artifex Fine Jewelry in New York, it sparked a surge of interest in narrative gemstones. “Demand for antique slender cushion-cut diamonds has increased significantly and it is almost impossible to find similar diamonds on the UK market,” explains Lisa Levinson, UK director of the Natural Diamond Council.
The main appeal of antique gemstones compared to modern diamonds is that they are one-of-a-kind, carved and faceted by hand, and full of character and history. “What attracts us to these cuts is their charm. Each diamond is unique and a testament to the skill of the diamond cutters working by candlelight,” said Charlie Pragnell, Managing Director of Pragnell. “We often find clients are drawn to the story and the uniqueness of these cuts – the beauty of these stones and the way they respond to light is what is most desirable.”
But how do you ensure that the antique gemstone or ring you buy is durable, has authentic history and provenance, and reflects your personality? Follow these steps to create the perfect engagement ring.
Don’t blame yourself to lower your grades
Traditionally, brides looking for a modern engagement ring often follow the 4Cs (cut, clarity, color and carat) defined by the GIA. In traditional terms, this means looking for diamonds that are as close to brilliant white in color as possible (most traditional engagement ring brands only use stones graded D, E, F, G, H, and I on the alphabetical color chart). However, older mine-cut diamonds with large facets tend to have more distinctive yellow and brown tones (which are also favored by contemporary jewelers such as Lucy Delius and Fernando Jorge), which means your attraction to the stone should depend on your preference for a particular cut, whether it’s a Victorian cushion cut, an emerald cut, or an Asscher cut (popularized by Art Deco), and the way it catches light. “People desire unique custom designs that personalize their diamonds. Where we used to see inclusions and imperfections, now we see personality,” explains Levinson. “Choose your diamonds with care!”
