The Tamesis
A stable business base also creates room for experimentation. “It definitely helps to have some stability in the brand,” Kegels said. “If you have strong relationships with stockists, a loyal direct audience, or a category that performs consistently, it creates more freedom to experiment without feeling like every piece needs to be under direct commercial pressure.”
Martha Mosse, director of the Paul Smith’s Foundation, stresses that experimental doesn’t always mean a hard sell. The foundation was founded by the eponymous designer to help emerging talents improve their business acumen. “Many of the designers we support through the Paul Foundation have a natural tendency to experiment and will do so regardless of the business environment,” she said. “Of course, financial stability allows you to take risks and experiment, but in my experience, those risks eventually translate into operational risks—such as hiring staff or scaling a studio.”
Vaquera’s designers say their return to a more experimental approach is based on lessons learned during a more business-focused phase. “We learned to be honest with our desires – Do I really want to wear this? Is there a place to wear it?” DiCaprio said. Strong accessories can also help offset risk: Vaquera’s oversized aviator sunglasses and wedges, for example, are designed to be both eye-catching and wearable—products that can support more dramatic runway moments.
Prothmann, whose bespoke collections are produced in his London studio and sold direct to customers, says having a steady stream of repeat customers allows him to pursue his own unique aesthetic. He now hopes to develop wholesale partnerships for the autumn/winter 2026 collection – which he sees as a “validation mark” – but says the aesthetic will remain the same. “We don’t compress the design at all because that’s what people are looking for in my work,” he said.
Leo Prothmann FW26.Photo: Courtesy of Leo Prothmann
Moss advises designers not to be afraid of having a cab that customers know and love. “Just because a piece is more ‘commercial’ doesn’t make it any less interesting, so try not to discount those aspects of your business that provide you with creative freedom,” she says. “Don’t try to do everything at once, stay focused and make sure you balance ‘awareness building’ activities with more commercially impactful activities.” As well as developing core commercial ranges, she often advises designers to take on consulting work to help stabilize their businesses.
Ultimately, Vaquera’s Taubensee believes audiences respond most strongly when designers trust their instincts. “We became quite famous very quickly because we always did what we wanted to do — we didn’t think about sales, we just thought, ‘This is what I think is cool,'” she said. “Others can recognize when you’re doing something you truly believe in.”
