The Tamesis
For The Garment’s recent Cruise collection, home is indeed where the heart is. Continuing with the pre-fall style Vilhelm Hammershøi interiors, Charlotte Eskildsen remains local, drawing inspiration from the resort, Lille Mølle, a 17th-century windmill, residence and former mill located near Christiania. Not only does it serve as the backdrop for the lookbook, but some of the jacquard patterns created by the designers reference the interior materials used in this historic landmark. “You can really tell that these rooms are meant to be lived in, not just shown,” says Eskilson, who translated that idea into clothing designed for “a woman who dresses for herself and not to show off. So, not to show off, but to be who she wants to be when she’s at home.”
Lace and lingerie (including bloomers that appeared surprisingly everywhere) conveyed the idea of intimate interiors. But just as rooms have different functions, there’s no one way to dress a home. So Eskilson imagines you could wear a nightgown with a soft golden glow while watching TV or being the most hostess you can.
At The Garment, elements of femininity and nostalgia are always balanced with what the designers call “masculine references.” These often include 90s tailoring references. For example, a pair of narrow-cut trousers is paired with an asymmetrically closed tank top. This little adjustment creates a lovely drape in the fabric. A similar fabric movement was present in a silk slip dress with a spaghetti strap and a sleeve, which gently distorted the weight of the material and linked the idea of intimacy with softness. Eskildsen’s take on the Tyrolean wool jacket is a cropped fit, made from gold-trimmed jersey and finished with frog buttons. There is also a set consisting of scalloped shorts and a lace cape, which has a bit of a modern Little Red Riding Hood feel.
