The Tamesis
Stine Goya lends her green thumb to her thriving resort offerings. “This collection is about roses, but not about roses as decoration,” she stressed on Zoom. “We wanted to try to understand what happens when you see something very familiar until it reveals something completely new.”
Goya didn’t break new ground by using roses to express unabashed romanticism, but it’s clear that the designer is definitely back to his best. The tightly edited collection focuses on existing brand signatures, including proprietary patterns and a girl-meets-boy vibe, channeled through feminine bomber jackets (one with a luxe plaid lining) and jewel-toned plaids, balanced by sweet touches like the floral embroidery on the back pocket of a pair of washed jeans.
The rose-red fabric is cut into a low-cut dress with pleats under the bust; the fit can be customized with a delicate tie. For Resort, the on-trend Goya ruffled top is cut asymmetrically with shoulder-to-shoulder straps and features a colorful rose jacquard pattern, worn with matching cigarette trousers. Party dresses featured a makeup-colored fallen floral print with a vaguely ’50s silhouette; a more fashionable option was a heavy black satin T-shirt dress with a beaded rose, which added to the appeal of a no-longer-bachelor. (Cue Miley Cyrus’ “Flowers.”)
The most interesting take on the theme was one with minimal narrative—Goya turned the fabric on the lapel of a custom black blazer into a 3D rose. In the past, designers might have used metallic accessories to add interest to a cut, which often felt cold and impersonal. This soft style emphasizes the sensual aspects of the material and reveals the reassuring presence of the hand.
