The Tamesis
When Rag & Bone debuted in 2002, it helped crystallize the casual uniform of downtown New York: slim jeans and baggy T-shirts, paired with cool, classic jackets. Its founders, Marcus Wainwright and David Neville, imbued their British birthright with military attire and Savile Row tailoring that now has nothing genteel about it. The result is cosmopolitan and undeniably cool, a brand that helped define the early look.
Fast forward about a quarter of a century, and Rag & Bone is an entirely different beast. Once independent, it now has dozens of stores and a massive wholesale business around the world. The founder has now left. Over the next few years, the menswear landscape changed dramatically, from country suiting to streetwear to cutting-edge styles. Many of their early contemporaries – The Outsiders, Patrick Ewell, Tim Hamilton – later folded. One of those brands is Obedient Sons & Daughers, co-founded by Swaim Hutson, who, in a twist of fate, is now head of menswear at Rag & Bone.
For his second season, Hutson wanted to both pay homage to Rag’s long-time customers (who, in some cases, have been with the brand for the better part of two decades) while also gently refreshing the brand for a new generation. He saw busy, well-dressed dads in Brooklyn — who, therefore, resembled Hutson himself — and their sons. It’s a fine line to walk.
“I really felt the colors,” Hutson said during a tour of the brand’s Meatpacking District offices. Last season’s bold reds have been toned down to rich emerald greens and bright cobalt blues, reflected in buttery suede trucker jackets and soft washed cashmere crewnecks. In fact, “soft” is a good word to describe his entire design style, as he tries to omit irrelevant design details, delve into fabrics, and gently incorporate some of the ready movements in menswear. Rounding out the look are striped knits with slightly dropped shoulders, pleated chinos, and lightweight cotton jackets in classic blue and white stripes, reminiscent of old oxfords.
Hutson is gently changing up Rag & Bone’s classic proposition: retaining light, relaxed tailoring and looking into expanding his shirting wardrobe (including casual tuxedos). And of course, there are those sumptuous coats. One subtly acknowledged the weird fireman jacket trend with just a metal buckle around the neck; a sleek black leather peacoat and an overdyed khaki green bomber also looked particularly good. Other highlights include new straight-leg jeans that will be a big focus next year, including a crease-front version that evokes mid-20th century cool, and a tobacco brown suede blazer. All in all, this is a thoughtful, subtle evolution with no revolution in sight. Maybe that’s what the brand needs right now.
