The Tamesis
Emilie Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt is pushing Malene Birger’s style in a more ladylike rather than bohemian direction. When she describes the resort collection as “a little vintage,” she doesn’t mean that it looks vintage, but rather that it’s sophisticated and feminine. Case in point: a black pantsuit paired with slim-fitting trousers and a collarless jacket trimmed with black and white braids. “I said to the design team, ‘If I were a jacket, I would be that jacket,'” the creative director says with a smile. While classic, this topper is softer and sexier than the ones you’d see at Le Cirque circa 1986.
It’s a product that encourages ASMR responses through sound (see the pearl-embedded knitted capes and skirts) and touch. Caressable doe-patterned pony hair was used to create outerwear and, stunningly, a breezy miniskirt paired with a crisp pink blouse. There’s also a cardigan with felt raised appliqués inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe’s floral studies. The fringe embellishes the cape front and low-cut back of the dress, and the A-line trench coat with fringe trim is full of movement. The reference is to Italian interiors, but it also speaks to the Poiretism we’ve seen lately. Regardless, this collection totally leads the way in smart and effortless dressing.
