The Tamesis
Queen Sirikit is often compared to Jackie Kennedy, the young and beautiful wife of the head of state, who used fashion as a form of diplomacy. What’s the most radical thing she’s ever done for Thai clothing?
Her Royal Highness Princess Sirivannavari: I think you can see how she uses fashion as a foreign currency to send hidden messages. To me, this is a very talented way to showcase our heritage. She appears not only in beautiful Balmain pieces; She also wears ethnic costumes from around the world to show that we have our own style. She loved history and art and researched everything herself—fabrics, jewelry, everything. In the 1960s and 1970s, Southeast Asia was not what it is now. Thailand needed to have its own image on the global stage, and she created that image, standing next to the king – a bit like his publicist – showing in her own way what he stood for. She’s funny and has her own ideas about how a modern queen should address the world.
Is there anything she told you that stood out to you as a designer?
She always told me, “Don’t forget your homeland and culture. Keep all the good things about Europe and bring them to Thailand and develop them. Don’t leave the craftsmen behind.” I also remember sitting next to her once and she said that after decades of etiquette and white gloves and all that, it was “time to relax and have fun.” She must have been 70 years old. I think she has paid her fair share for the conference.
The Queen has an extraordinary creative relationship with Balmain and Lesage. What makes it so unique?
There was a lot of collaboration – Balmain would come and take beautiful photos, work with Thai designers on sketches, and then take them to Lesage to create extraordinary embroidery pieces using temple paintings. My grandmother showed him a lot of beautiful things for him to play with, but she also had her own style. Together they created a style that is unique in the world: not 100% Thai, not 100% French, but a true collaboration between two artists. For example, Balmain had to adapt to the irregularities of hand-woven fabrics and make them part of his creations. They became good friends and cared about each other. We tried to make this back and forth visible in this exhibition.
What do you think is your grandmother’s most lasting legacy?
My grandmother was an iconic figure, a queen beloved for generations. Her following isn’t just about her clothes and jewelry; It’s because of the way she talks, the way she carries herself, her intelligence, her whole persona. Big fans remember exactly which jewelry she wore on which occasion. She is the whole package.
When it comes to fashion, she has truly revived a tradition that continues to inspire younger generations. She took the tradition and changed it slightly, moving towards modernism and creating a new standard similar to the Japanese kimono or the Indian sari. She also championed natural dyes and made Thai textiles not as clothing but as part of everyday wardrobes – something she also made possible through the subsequent support of the foundation that nurtured artisans and rural artisans. This is very important work. After all, craftsmanship is one thing that artificial intelligence cannot do.
