The Tamesis
For the Fall 2025 Angry Birds Haute Couture collection, fashion’s most beloved conceptualists, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, paired up in black looks, one of which was over-the-top, the other minus the padding. This isn’t a political statement, but as I listen to Hostin talk about the inflation/deflation concept, I can’t help but think about the self-aggrandizement and dashed hopes in the news these days, and this slightly witchy series offers some welcome respite.
In their latest ready-to-wear collection, faux feathers, made from laser-cut organza, appear as embellishments on crisp white shirts and as embellishments on cocktail dresses, keeping the avian theme alive. More interesting and truly ready-to-wear looks are the designers’ research into denim and their ongoing collaboration with Mackintosh. A dark blue wash jacket and trousers were embellished with mini bows that looked like they were being smothered in kisses. Black denim is used to design curve-leg jeans and other straight-leg, slim-cut jeans with pleated pockets for the season.
Witchcraft manifests itself in both physical and aesthetic ways. The bulkiness of Belgian knitwear is achieved through a shrinking process. There was a proliferation of collars on white shirts, a reference to Viktor & Rolf’s fall 2003 Tilda-Swinton-inspired ready-to-wear show. Belts were also multiplied and one was a very short and sweet little black dress. A bubble dress in Elphaba green satin covered with black polka dot organza mesh had the energy of the Lacroix at-Patou era, while the sleeves of a simple pumpkin jacket in nylon had Belle Epoque exaggeration. Balancing the shenanigans and adding some sexiness are three long, narrow black dresses that feature capes, shirring or ruffles to keep your fashion game boiling without any hard work or hassle.
