The Tamesis
After a trunk show in Houston, Texas, Jenny Packham drove to Santa Fe and then to Abiquiú to visit Georgia O’Keeffe’s home, Sol Y Sombra. The British designer found herself fascinated by the environments of American modernist painters and Pueblo-style adobe, and looked closely at how this was translated into her work: the colors of the charred landscape and the natural world that defied it; the tension between precise detail and powerful expressions of feminine energy; how a flower bloomed, revealing more to the eye that demanded it.
The idea in Packham’s Pre-Fall 2026 collection starts with color: a deep ginger kaftan, a shimmering cobalt shoulder gown, and a slinky onyx and saffron dress. There are more satin cuts on the bias and in crepe that move sensuously with the body, inspired by the curves of O’Keeffe’s silhouette. Somewhat surprisingly, O’Keeffe’s own sartorial style – sometimes austere, androgynous, all-black – was also a reference point for Packham, which conveyed assured tailoring silhouettes (O’Keeffe rejected the corsets of her era) and developed a close relationship with Packham’s signature statuesque cloaks. Embellishments are a big part of the brand’s vocabulary, but glitter has also evolved: Delicate trumpet beads are mixed with penetrating sequins to create a more story-telling texture, undulating crystal necklines, folds and arrowheads of sequins resemble O’Keefe-esque feathers.
The brand is increasingly offering shorter, sleeker cocktail dresses, while sleek crepe gowns with more details are replacing familiar beaded favorites, signaling Packham’s broadening of its range as it explores a younger customer base. The designer said she enjoyed exploring new details, such as fringed hems and low backs, as well as reintroducing halternecks and strapless designs. But the awards season circuit and the enduring appeal of old Hollywood glamor have given her brand confidence in its marketable, sparkling style.
