The Tamesis
Pierre Maio may be a Parisian through and through, but he has one arguably un-French quality: Even when the headlines are grim, he still manages to see the glass as half full. “You have to know when to stop listening to the news and focus on the task at hand,” he said during a showroom presentation of the fall pre-installation collection. “I guess I’m a little bit American in that way because I tend to look for the positive. It’s the only way to keep moving forward. You fight with everything you’ve got because we’re lucky to live in the most beautiful, most talked-about fashion city in the world.” For nearly 15 years, Officine Générale has built an arsenal of authenticity and an easy, reliable Parisian sensibility. At home and abroad, its philosophy of “innovation rather than revolution” has won a stable and loyal customer base.
The men’s wear in this pre-fall collection is inspired by Mahéo’s own wardrobe, including several all-terrain work jackets, as well as a replica of the 1940s JC Penney Japanese-striped denim jacket that he designed decades ago and that he still wears even when it comes apart at one shoulder. Here, it’s back to Officine style in a deep indigo wash with slightly weathered pintuck pleats, patch pockets and subtle bronze buttons. The designer’s ’60s-style boxers worn year-round are also here, now with tweaked belt loops and a straight, loose fit, while some of the most popular chinos are mixed into soft sage green camo for a look that was previously loved. Mahéo likes to delve deeper into materials, and here he incorporates “casual classic” suiting into lightweight wools, cashmere and silk serges, better prepared for the retail season of spring showers, sweltering heat and unpredictable cold snaps.
Women’s clothing also pays homage to vintage style, with weathered jeans cut for a loose fit and leather for a forever-have attitude. The brand’s staples are pieces that are stylish enough to be worn in everything from the office to the gallery to dinner, and the collection’s jackets come in a variety of styles, from plaid to discreetly worn jackets, and cropped black jackets with toggle buttons to suit almost any occasion. There were a few staples — simple trousers that hugged the hips perfectly, a pleated black shift dress, a sharp gray tank top — but the collection’s savviest creation came from an unlikely source: a pinstriped jacket, now with a little tab at the waist that can go from boxy to cinched with just a flick of the eye. Whether pinstripes are actually part of their world or not, it’s the kind of detail that keeps Officine fans coming back season after season.
“You can’t talk to everyone; it would be vulgar to even try,” the designer commented. “I’d rather have a good conversation with a small community expressing their views, their values and the products they like.”
