The Tamesis
Nicky Zimmermann starts the season with a historical event rather than a feeling – the 1983 America’s Cup. (For those interested in the full story of the underdog Australian sailing team’s overthrow of the U.S. champions, Zimmerman recommends the Netflix documentary, which will be a formative memory for any Australian of a certain age, Unknown: Game of the Century.) “This story not only resonates with my childhood, but is a truly feel-good story for any generation,” says the Sydney-based designer.
As a fairly tangible starting point, inspiration doesn’t work as well as one might think. Resort and sailing don’t necessarily equate directly to boat-neck striped T-shirts and tops, and it would be better if they didn’t. Instead, a digitally printed dress in silk georgette layered over silk satin organza offered a more ephemeral interpretation. “I think the beautiful image of a sailboat also resonates with movement, and I love being able to reflect that in the clothing through the shape of the sail and details like that,” Zimmerman explains. Drop-waisted dresses and colorful shearlings evoked the good life of the yacht club.
Elsewhere, a striped cotton poplin dress suitable for resort was paired with more formal but frilly evening wear. This balance brings a new look to Zimmermann, known for his ruffled pieces. This balance is necessary, especially as designers strive to design for the increasingly blurred vacation season category. “We have a lot of customers in Florida and this series is very important to them,” Zimmerman said. “But they’re also in New York, they’re going to want colorful shearlings, they’re going to want long lace dresses. It’s really meaningful to me to be able to try to answer those questions.”
