The Tamesis
The mid-10s have made a comeback in a big way, especially in 2016’s embellished denim, bomber jackets and pastel palettes. Design duo Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida defined this era with their then five-year-old London label Marques’Almeida. They won an LVMH prize, dressed Rihanna and brought their spring 2017 collection to Brick Lane in East London. FashionChioma Nnadi describes her raw-edged Texas tuxedo and paisley-print petticoat paired with a sporty T-shirt as “a little bit punk, a little bit coquettish, and full of street attitude.”
After a few years absconding to show their collections in their native Portugal and Paris, Marques and Almeida returned to London last season for a show that traced the evolution of the M’A girl, showcasing cool, elegant, joyfully draped eveningwear. Back once again under the railway arches of Shoreditch, east London, the designers worked on a presentation, film and live shoot throughout early autumn 2026 as they looked to refine the brand identity, embrace the principles they set early in their work (long replicated and now divorced from their original context by fast fashion and TikTok’s five-year plan) and elevate them for today’s clientele.
“We consider it a workhorse series,” Marks said. “That’s the M’A DNA that we’ve been exploring pretty much… almost 15 years. We’re maturing with our customers, and that’s something we want to be aware of without losing sight of the work we’ve done to get there. “
“It’s never too precious,” Almeida added, pointing to the end of the railing, where an embellished pink tulle gown trailed to the floor. “We feel more confident now about owning our code. I think when we were younger we didn’t claim it.” “We just wanted to move on or do something different if we felt someone was copying us,” Marks continued. “Now we’re at a stage where we have this dress language and people subscribe to it loyally.”
Traditional dictionaries have a driving force but also a heightened tempo due to manufacturing and craftsmanship. From a croc-effect two-piece to the generous use of brocaded Lurex, texture is at your fingertips. A raw, ruffled white denim jacket recalls their signature utilitarian silhouette. “When we first did it, people got hurt!” Max said with a laugh. While studying at Central Saint Martins, the design study of Galliano’s long gown paired with a vintage parka became an ethos for Marques and Almeida, who reveled in this duality. Satin checks and florals on bias-cut petticoats and slinky halternecks recall Kurt Cobain’s uniforms, while 1980s stock-market trader shirts feature baroque details. A bomber jacket comes in sky-blue crocodile; a soft marshmallow gown is paired with multi-pocketed khaki army pants. A sporty ribbed-knit vest is paired with a heavy Mikado skirt that sculpts the hips. “It can be one person’s wedding dress, and it can be another person’s wedding dress. Paired with a hoodie, it’s a trip to Tesco.”
Community has always been at the core of Marques and Almeida’s work, and they are committed to deepening their roots and expanding the female muse that M’A girls are now. Launching the Pre-Fall collection as a self-proclaimed “workhorse” collection preempts larger plans to cast a wider net.
