The Tamesis
David Koma swaps one aerial muse for another – after a superwoman– A Pre-Fall collection inspired by comic book colors, the Fall 2026 collection begins with the image of a swan crossing a brutalist cityscape, its feathered wings silhouetted against exposed gray concrete, which Koma saw while walking in London’s Hyde Park. It’s these juxtapositions that exemplify Koma’s design dichotomy for the women he dresses: a restrained, cool-toned female aesthete.
The concept of “femininity” in contemporary design can go towards one of two extremes: transparent silhouettes flowing around curves, or armor-like shoulders of strength. (Maybe even a baggage or a hustle, as the past few weeks have shown.) “I wanted to find that real tension between vulnerability and discipline,” Coma said. His woman expresses her sensuality through restraint, waiting to be approached, then spreading her wings as quickly and smoothly as a warning. Feather pleats and ruffled collars framed the collarbone, while layers of tulle flowed out from the hips, contrasting with a series of structured slim cuts, puddle skirts and plunging bodices. Sexy dresses were tempered with tuxedo-like details, while knife-collar suits could be tightened and outerwear confidently took up space: a double-effect shearling coat in ombré hues sat high on the shoulders like a raised mane. All-out glamor and welcome humor were delivered in an instant, as quickly and precisely as the exposed sternum and clean cut of the waist, like a showgirl in a crystal-embellished bra and panties, with feathers sprouting from the bottom.
“We’re very proud that most of our pieces carry a semi-couture stamp,” says Koma, “even in ready-to-wear form.” A monochromatic palette of stone white and onyx emphasizes a focus on texture and tactility: Mongolian wool wings, 3D embroidered leather florals, matte sequin bouclé, brooch-style buttons, and almost translucent lace on silk recall the first whispers of winter ice on an English lake.
