The Tamesis
Robert Rauschenberg coined the word “assembly” to describe his hybrids of painting and sculpture. Tanya Taylor embraced this pattern for fall, experimenting with “mixed media” fabric combinations, patchworking silk with velvet, cashmere and satin, sequins and knits, denim and knits. The idea seemed to be that an unexpected mix of materials would bring a freshness to her classic silhouettes.
“I think there’s a sense of fashion in the air right now around tradition, this romantic, Victorian style of Wuthering Heights,” comments Taylor. She caught the trend with lace. The designer notes that a cozy cashmere maxi dress is perfect for curling up with a book, with sleeves that roll up gently before tightening at the wrist.
Tyalor’s use of suede, pony hair and faux fur (see the deep removable cuffs on denim jackets) gave the collection a sophisticated and luxurious feel. Sometimes she emphasizes this, like with a drab burgundy jacket and trousers. Other times, designers went for a dressy/casual contrast, pairing a striped polo sweater with suede or lace-trimmed underwear, or juxtaposing sequins and plaid. Some of these combinations are more convincing than others. Swan prints and sweaters inspired by the designer’s annual trip to Inverness, Scotland, added a touch of fun to this solid, if not shiny, collection.
