The Tamesis
Stine Goya unintentionally gamified the fall design process. She and her team conducted the Enneagram test and, intrigued by the results, built a series around the three types and assigned them different themes. Roses are for sentimental individualists, stripes are for layered achievers, and shells are for uniform perfectionists. When asked where she ended up on the continuum, Goya said, “I’m mostly an achiever and a perfectionist, [but] I think I’m actually somewhere in between all of them. “
In menswear, several designers explored different types of masculinity, and here the focus was more subdued and you could read collections that corresponded to different aspects of one personality. This is one of Goya’s most relaxed collections in a while, although that’s hard to tell from the lookbook images, which focus on the dressier aspects of the product. Knitwear was an early brand icon and was very powerful. There’s a range of chunky handmade knitwear, one with a bouquet of roses, and a charming cardigan whose three-dimensional knitted shells are embellished with pearls. The color-blocked cardigan you see paired with khaki pants is actually one piece that looks like two pieces. Jackets feature attractive, removable knitted collars, with a highlight being a navy down jacket with upholstery-like tufting and a green collar.
As for the cut, Goya wore a black jacket that mimicked the pearl costume. The sleeves of the long black single-breasted coat are crafted from fine metallic material and the cuffs fold back to reveal the lining stripes. This seemingly casual gesture offsets (in a good way) the quirkiness the piece would otherwise have. It’s a sweet place and great to see more of.
