The Tamesis
The week also saw the seventh annual J-Quality program, which focuses on Japanese clothing and production, including select Japanese manufacturers and Japanese biotech company Spiber, creators of a brewed protein that can be used to create fabrics.
“Every time we have to choose a designer, we think first of all about Japan,” says Francesca Tacconi, who is responsible for Pitti Uomo’s special projects, including the guest designer show. “I see in every magazine in Italy that the new tailoring is now Japanese. It’s surprising because if you think Italy is the home of tailoring, there are new versions of tailoring and menswear [coming from Japan] This is the true attitude. “
As menswear evolves in the post-streetwear boom, consumers are seeking new ways to dress. “[Japanese designers] says Noelle Rodrigues, co-founder of London store Future Present, which specializes in Japanese brands (and is currently Shinyakozuka’s sole stockist in the UK). She added that the growing visibility of these brands shows that consumer desire for menswear is no longer bounded by strict distinctions such as tailoring versus streetwear: “It points to an interesting shift in the way menswear is understood and valued internationally.”
After winning the LVMH Prize, Otsuki became the focus of the season. It blends the nostalgia of 1980s Italian tailoring with Japanese details like karate silhouettes and kimono tie jackets, bringing a freshness to suiting. “He flipped [the suit]”Make Made in Italy become Made in Japan, rather than copying and pasting Mr. Armani’s silhouettes,” Taconi said. “That’s where fashion has to go, otherwise it’s all about tradition.”
Pitti is pushing Japanese brands to expand
For Japanese brands and designers looking to break into the domestic market, Pitti Uomo offers a crucial next step. It’s an especially opportune time for Otsuki Warriors, who until recently did most of his direct-to-consumer sales in the U.S. before recent tariff changes. “We have temporarily suspended shipments to the U.S., so the situation there is basically on hold right now,” said Otsuki, who hopes the Petey Show will gain more international accounts outside the U.S. The show’s clear focus on menswear was also a draw: “One of Soshiotsuki’s core missions has always been to influence the context of traditional menswear,” said the designer. “In this sense, I think there is no more meaningful or relevant platform to showcase my work than Pitti.”
Shinyakozuka has similar plans. “Our business goal for the next few years is to establish an appropriate organizational and profit structure that will allow us to sustain the Paris shows without undue financial pressure,” said the brand’s director, Shimpei Kajiura. “Pitti is the first strategic step to establish brand image and credibility in international markets outside Japan.” Shinyakozuka currently generates half of its annual revenue outside Japan, with year-on-year growth of 130% to 150%, and the brand is ready to expand globally.
