The Tamesis
As an unprecedented Gilded Age unfolds in real time, Zuhair Murad looks to an earlier era: Paris during the Belle Époque, a period when a certain kind of spirited, cultured woman was free to live and do whatever she wanted in any way she saw fit. The designer explained in notes that his Fall/Pre-Spring collection celebrated the “bold and uninhibited personalities” of legendary courtesans, such as the bejeweled Countess de Castiglione or the Marchesa Casati, whose entire existence was a living work of art.
In showroom previews, jewel-toned pieces dominated, such as an emerald taffeta strapless gown with a bustier or pomegranate cady pleated bodice, and a conch pink or ivory cotton bodice with laser-cut eyelets on the skirt. Murad, who has recently expanded her accessories range to include work leather Mandapa bags, floral stiletto sandals, satin jewelry box evening bags, and Ritz-sized rhinestones, kept the looks relatively simple and tonal, letting the baubles have free rein. Case in point: a chocolate gown shown here paired with a majestic scarf necklace proves that luxury and restraint can indeed coexist.
Of course, there were exceptions, starting with a boudoir-adjacent lace dress with an integrated bodice, or a dress covered in mirrored sequins atop a sheer café au lait skirt. Exposed jewel-toned sequins adorned structured jackets, a diamond leaf pattern adorned a strapless gown, and shimmering jet tendrils dangled from the shoulders of a black jacket. Moving further forward, the flowers in the painting pay homage to the romance of the winter garden.
The collection was primarily eveningwear – although that was dependent on how Murad’s ladies chose to dress during the day – but it did highlight suiting as a lesser-known strength, with cleanly tailored yet effortless-looking jackets and trousers suitable for heavy rotation now and in seasons to come. And there’s no shortage of charm and grandeur party Preview: In November, the designer was honored with the Arab Fashion Trust Trailblazer Award for bringing Arab fashion to the world stage. This year, he’ll take things to another level when he moves his namesake house into a luxury hotel in the City of Lights’ Golden Triangle.
