The Tamesis
This year marks the centenary of Kent & Curwen, a traditional brand that has long advocated British preppy style. On the occasion of its anniversary, chief creative director Daniel Kearns is considering how to expand its scope while maintaining the brand’s identity. Last season, he mused on London summer languor in the lush Royal Garden Hall, channeling preppy preppy style with bubble hems and botanical prints. The fall 2026 fashion show took place in the sprawling Westminster School, whose ancient walls were adorned with medieval coats of arms. There is a twinkling Victorian lamppost in the center of the track.
For inspiration, the designers looked to the elusive Cambridge Night Climbers – a group first recorded in the 1930s who were involved in the secret tradition of students climbing the college’s buildings at night. “It was a secret society based on effort — not for intellectual or financial gain, but for courage,” Kearns said. “[They were] Unknown, unnoticed, misfits who resist the rules and adopt their own code. The collision of reverence and irreverence feels very British and very much in keeping with the brand. “
At a preview, Kearns showed off a book about the club written by author Noël Howard Symington under the pseudonym “Whipplesnaith,” in which students wear suits and cling to stained-glass windows. Another depicts students in exam robes and evening wear, with their messy, poster-adorned bedrooms in the background. Just as the club viewed the architecture of British universities as a place to play, Kearns explores the British dress system from unexpected angles.
What it looks like: Traditional silhouettes reimagined with playful volumes (as if the wind between the spiers was picking up on the climb), as well as abstract symbols and decorative details designed for double consideration. Graduation-style capes and skimpy skirts are pleated, the epitome of British messy style. The funnel neck is reinforced with strips of leather, and the classic trench is made from light blue patent leather with loafer-like fringing on the lapels. Silk tank tops and soft knit dresses drop at the waist, while stretch-crepe suits are tailored for a slim fit. Multifunctional zippers and jeweled boutonnieres encourage individuality, although these rebellious vibes are punctuated by innocence and whimsy. A cute custom pink corduroy jacket was modeled after Kearns’ daughter’s school jacket.
