The Tamesis
When times are tough in the fashion world (i.e., the economy is down), it’s easy for designers to prioritize commerce over creativity—but for fall, Naeem Khan took a risk of his own. “I wanted to make something very artistic,” Khan said.
Before designing the new collection, Khan watched a documentary about Bob Mackie and found himself in awe of the legendary designer’s staying power. “I love how exaggerated and charming it is [his pieces were,]”Khan said, adding that this influenced him to lean into this mythology himself. Khan is known for his gorgeous gowns, so the extravagance didn’t feel completely out of place.”
Focusing on his signature beading and embellishments, Khan ventured into full-on peacock territory for fall. His opening gown featured white, brown and black feathers. Another highlight was his mini dress, inspired by Andy Warhol’s poppies: Khan strung the flowers onto a simple dress and then layered them with white, gold and champagne fringe.
Of course, using Bob Mackie as a reference, there had to be a nude dress or two. Khan designed a sheer mesh gown with crystal punctuation on the bodice and a gauzy, nude skirt at the bottom. The designer showed little restraint this season, but that was the point: even his sleek black blazer was covered in ornate chandelier-style embroidery. “It’s unisex — I hope it gets shared,” Khan said of the statement jacket.
Closing the show was a long black gown and matching evening gown, both covered in rooster feathers with an oil-slick texture. It’s all very Maleficent – a fitting Disney villain, if you will. “this [season] It’s for me to play with,” Khan said.
