The Tamesis
Everyone gets hurt sometimes. And it sounds like it has been Yin Jingwei’s turn to experience the ups and downs of life recently. Backstage after the show, he told us: “This collection comes from very personal experiences. I’ve had some troubles, struggles over the past six months. I’ve experienced a lot of resistance and sometimes even [felt] It’s like a breakup. I carried this sentiment with me throughout the development of this series. “
What exactly hit Yin so hard, we politely didn’t ask. On a smoky show floor, he had just done what all artists do: transformed trauma into matter. In his collection titled “Radical Tenderness,” the hypersensitive state often produced by personal shock is deftly translated into garments with soft depth of color, texture, drape, and clarity of proportion.
The jagged, halo-emitting spikes on his laser-cut cupro cuffs, collar, and armbands tremble with meaningful movement. Spiked scalloped fabric on the low-rise skirt connects to a longer hem made from a lighter, more comfortable material. Thick yarns, rich speckled, intentionally frayed and ripped knitwear are rolled and layered around the body beneath with a defensive, sheltering richness.
Opaque overdyed jersey with subtle color variations was cut into diagonally paneled maxi skirts and paired with more assertive separates. The lapels of short and colorful evening gowns are cut to form a loop down the front of the dress and then up again at the bust for protection. There was a beautiful, statuesque pale olive dress that hung from the hips, hung from the neckline, and knotted in a knot at the pit of her stomach. Oversized leather biker jackets, tailored jackets in silky glossy corduroy, and 1980s-inspired blazers with shoulder straps all look like pieces you can retreat to. Some corset jackets have open backs and hook-and-eye fasteners that are not closed, revealing the garment underneath. The designer says his designs strive to express the captivating complexity of the women he designs.
There was an added benefit of creating this Oude Waag series, Yin adds: “I figured out how to face it, how to move forward. There’s a flow of life. Then, you can actually find yourself more clearly.” While taking pleasure from pain feels a little wrong, it’s a truly compelling body of work.
