The Tamesis
Autumn marks Ernesto Naranjo’s return to Madrid Fashion Week, having first participated in the event in 2014 while still a student at Central Saint Martins. During these ten years, the designer lived abroad, collaborated with John Galliano of Maison Margiela, founded his own company, and began teaching. His new collection showcases the skills he has developed, but also his range. Naranjo is best known for his dresses, but like many others this season, he has a soft spot for look-building separates. “I always felt like I was an event designer — I knew I was that person and I loved it — but I wanted to get myself out of my comfort zone,” he said by phone.
Naranjo’s cornerstone is his garments cut primarily in circular and square patterns. Some of them became soft sculptures on the body – look at the little black dress and the two-tone cape. Others are multifunctional, like tops that can be worn as skirts. He also transformed the belt into a dramatic collar. Straw pompoms peeking out of the folds of pink chiffon blouses also adorned belts, which some models draped decoratively over their shoulders. If these look familiar, that’s because they resemble the flowers worn by flamenco dancers and are made in Naranjo’s native Andalucia.
Wider reference points include artists Ángela de la Cruz, Gillian Theobald, the Gutai movement and Studio 54 glam. This last one is expressed most clearly in draped jersey and shimmering lamé. As is often the case here, closures are rare. The sexiness of a stray button or a ribbon tie suggests a state of undress. The opening look of a hoop knit stands on its own.
