The Tamesis
Finding Phoebe Philo accessories at recent fashion shows was a front-row game. It’s a small light blue leather gig bag, and a pair of bright white pleated flats. Is that a Kick custom salt and pepper jacket? Why, yes. And you can’t count all the Bombé shades. Two-and-a-half years since she launched her own brand, Philo continues to operate in stealth mode — no shows, no personal Instagram, only rare interviews, and new creative directors of even the biggest brands find ways to attract attention — but her influence is unquestionable.
Street fashion photographer Tommy Ton, who has been documenting the scene outside the shows for 20 years, confirms this impression: “When she designed for Celine, her clothes really gave women a sense of empowerment that carried over into her own collections. Wearing Phoebe Philo is almost a badge of honor. It’s an armor that makes you feel like you’re still part of a members-only club.”
Philo’s new Collection E, on display in a showroom in a remote part of Paris during the haute couture shows in January, attracted a steady stream of members and new members eager to touch shearling and admire leather jackets in different finishes and silhouettes. Philo understands the power and appeal of statement outerwear, such as the aptly named ‘Nuzzle’, a double-breasted belted jacket dyed in a melange of blue and apricot wool, or the ‘Ted’, a long, more closely tailored shearling robe.
Obviously, these are major investments, but Philo also has her share of fun. Her serious approach to fashion is appealing. A blue shearling hoodie and shearling drawstring trousers and a deep red are as casual as your favorite sweatshirt, but the opposite of indulgent. She brought a similar sense of play to a densely 3D-embroidered T-shirt in a technical fabric, the effect of which she likened to the ruffled, layered texture of a carnation.
While Philo places a strong emphasis on unique trophy pieces, she also has a flair for “everyday” pieces: a plain men’s T-shirt with patches on the shoulders, a simple tank top with sculptural industrial tubing at the hem, details that can transform ordinary clothing into trophies. She favors high-low combinations: pairing shearling with drawstring pajama pants, or pairing a plain T-shirt with asymmetrical train trousers. Typically, evening wear is paired with espadrilles and rubber-soled shoes. Her idea for After Dark was unconventional and decidedly unfussy—a silk T-shirt “gown,” slim black leather overalls worn with nothing underneath, and a scarf top hung from a delicate strap around the neck, leaving the back completely bare. Maybe a badge of honor, but definitely a badge of cool.
