“We’re Watching the Erasure of Women’s Bodies”: Casting Directors on the State of Size Inclusivity

Whether you’re watching from the front row or via livestream, the casting of a fashion show determines the pacing, the proportions of the garments, and the overall impression the brand makes. But in terms of size inclusivity, the fall and winter 2026 season is dominated by thin bodies, with the occasional curvy model or a few medium-sized looks, making the fall/winter 2026 season disappointing.

Casting directors sit between brands and stylists, models and agents. From this vantage point, directors have a clear understanding of the reality of inclusiveness at scale on the runway: how it works, who calls the shots, and what really drives change.

This season, size inclusivity dropped to its lowest level since we started tracking representation on the runways three years ago. Of the 7,817 looks shown in 182 fashion shows and presentations, 97.6% were available in straight sizes (US 0-4), 2.1% were medium (US 6-12), and 0.3% were large (US 14+).

“Sometimes people feel like size inclusivity is viewed as a moment or a trend rather than a permanent shift in how the industry handles representation,” says Hollie Schliftman, a cast member on this season’s Christian Siriano show (No. 3 in New York) who has been in the industry for about 20 years. “There is always an element of aspiration in fashion, but true aspiration should also reflect the reality of the world we live in. Most women are not a size 0 or a size 2, or even a size 4. Most women are closer to a size 8, 10 or 12, and this reality should be consistently reflected in shows and events.”

As fads become more visible, so do the risks. “Fashion shows now get a lot of mainstream media attention, so a lot of people actually go to see them,” said Emma Matell, whose shows this season include Lueder, Tolu Coker and Cecilie Bahnsen. “In the past, the fashion industry seemed to have its own weird standards. Now, it’s affecting the general public even more because they basically get a front-row seat through live streaming.”

“The saddest thing about the backsliding of inclusivity is that we are witnessing the disappearance of women’s bodies,” said Chloe Rosolek, who cast in Karoline Vitto’s FW26 show, the most inclusive show of the season. “Either you have to comply so you can continue to compete as a model, or you have to sit back and watch. Clearly there is still a huge market [the clothes] – Most people are not a sample size. The luxury market seems so fat-phobic that it’s unwilling to make any changes. “

While Schliftman highlights the efforts of many designers, she says inconsistency undermines progress: “It needs to be a lasting part of the industry’s framework. Representation needs to be less of a statement and more of a standard.”

How sample size shapes runway

Casting directors agree that creative directors and the photographers and stylists who work with them hold the power in the casting process. “Designers ultimately make the final decision, but there’s definitely room for [for casting directors] Advocate for broader institutions. “The designers who are most receptive are the ones who already understand that women, and people in general, don’t come in the same size,” says Schlieftman. In the best cases, casting is a true collaboration. It stops being a top-down ‘this is how it has to be’ directive and becomes a partnership between designers, creative teams and casting directors. “