The Tamesis
Undercover’s Jun Takahashi is a master of making weird and weird runway shows, but he’s also a master of injecting creative energy into clothes that women can easily wear.
This pre-fall collection centers on the brand’s ongoing exploration of docking, where two seemingly disparate garments are spliced into one. A gray wool coat found its way into the copper sleeves of a silk bomber jacket with ribbed cuffs, while tailored suits and maxi skirts featured long triangles of sheer or satin fabric that were reminiscent of pajamas, while punk tartan skirts and baggy hoodies were also on display.
The jeans have a strip of lace grafted onto the right thigh to look like a stocking welt, while the front business blazer has a sheer chiffon panel on the back. The most successful of these docking experiments was a short billowy quilted jacket given the velvet shawl lapels of a tuxedo blazer. clever. The feet of each look were either furry strappy slippers or stomping leather boots.
This Frankenstein-like mix of lingerie, evening wear, outerwear and other apparel adds more sexiness and sophistication to a practical wardrobe of everyday pieces.
Of course, it’s all dripping with Takahashi’s signature surrealism. Denim and corduroy jackets had flaps hanging off the hems of what looked like disembodied sweaters, while wool knitwear featured tiny white collars at the neck and sleeves, or extra collars at the elbows. Weird and wonderful, sure, but also effortlessly wearable.
