The Tamesis
In addition to being closely related to this season’s men’s collection, this Undercover women’s collection is also on display in the showroom: Jun Takahashi is on vacation while curating other collections. The clothes are very everyday and seasoned with contrasting accents of tweed and toughness.
Black corrugated seamed cashmere ‘suit’ with brass chain detail and back-to-front button closure on the jacket. Wearing a pair of jeans under a two-tone oatmeal cashmere jacket, one leg features a portrait of Cindy Sherman, further emphasized with beads. Other jeans feature ’90s-style silk floral print patches. More flowers adorned the black background of a silk zip-up jacket and matching cozy scarf: As you snuggled in, you noticed the jarring details in the print, including a Bambi-like pony face and edited eyes.
A floral topstitched bomber jacket is covered in sequins, deepening the texture of the bouquet. The same fabric was used to create a mummy tote with Undercover’s slogan Chaos/Balance engraved on its nylon web handle. There’s a glossy black suede dock jacket with furry collar detailing, strappy pointed-toe pumps with polka dot lining, a cashmere hoodie with ragged double seams from underarm to kangaroo pocket, and a raw silk pressed military surplus-style parka.
Takahashi once again showed off plenty of grafted coats. Examples include a brown chore jacket apparently layered with a white chore jacket, a black peak-collar coat, a similar black judo-style robe, and a MA-1 shearling mix. There are some cool wide-leg jeans with satin black ruffles peeking out of the pockets. This collection reflects the complexities of everyday life very well.
