The Tamesis
Tommy Hilfiger remembers how men dressed up for work in the 1980s, when he launched his namesake brand in New York. For Wall Street executives and others, these are truly the days of power suits. On a normal Tuesday, you’d easily see men wearing three-piece suits, and designers think this sartorial focus is about to make a comeback today. “Men have become more casual over time, but I think we’re back to that now,” Hilfiger said.
These days, a standard dress shirt and slacks may be the go-to for business people (or, if you work from home or at a startup, athleisure to work). But for Hilfiger’s new fall collection, the designer wanted to imagine a world in which menswear has become ultra-edgy again. “It’s a New York collection and more dressy,” he said. “Young people who have never actually worn a suit are now eager to have their first suit. I think they’ve seen movies, or pictures of their fathers or grandfathers wearing suits.”
Of course, Hilfiger has always been a quintessentially American (and New York) brand, so his sense of American classics is evident. Designing in his signature palette of red, white and blue, Hilfiger hopes to elevate his everyday products by juxtaposing strict tailoring with preppy, casual elements. His fall coat is a real eye-catcher. Some styles, such as the cashmere wool peacoat, “are designed to be a little looser than before,” he said. A delicate peak-collar tweed coat that echoes the silhouette of the 1940s.
Hilfiger also went all-in to camel, designing gorgeous coats and suits in timeless neutral tones. “Camel can be paired with any color—from burgundy to navy,” he says. “I like to break it up.” It looks particularly sophisticated paired with a chunky button-down jacket and a navy suit, collared shirt and striped tie. The suit is made from a more technical fleece that “you can throw in any environment and it won’t wrinkle,” Hilfiger said. Because if men today are going to dress, they still need to be very simple.
Even his casual pieces have details that make them feel more luxurious and stylish. For example, striped rugby polo shirts and cable-knit sweaters are made from soft cashmere. Denim separates, like jeans or button-down tops, are also paired with double-breasted loafers and penny loafers—a cooler, more casual look. These are wardrobe staples that, frankly, you can find in any store you walk into today—but we also have to remember that Hilfiger was one of the early pioneers of such modern, wearable pieces, and he can still make them incredibly well.
