The Tamesis
Matteo Tamburini attended today’s show, dressed head-to-toe (naturally) in a gray flannel blazer from Tod’s, a soft, boxy look that looked intentional, a delicate cashmere sweater layered over a dark tartan shirt, and a pair of casual, round-leg beige chinos. He noted that the chinos “matched my Gommino suede moccasins perfectly,” a statement that’s hard to argue with given the evidence on his feet. He personalized the look with his signature baseball cap. The result is a cool formal-casual look, an outfit that is clearly thoughtful but never seems overly thought out. “That’s the vibe I want to convey through my work at Tod’s,” he says, dressing like a serious guy.
The autumn lineup is more official than ever, revealed at Villa Necchi Campiglio. Suits were quietly hemmed and flanked by effortless separates whose luxurious touches were subtly dialed up without intruding on what Tamburini described as “a real, everyday, lifestyle approach to dressing.” As always, the interest lies in what is not made public. The padded piumino, which looks almost inconspicuous, is actually smooth matte silk. A simple jacket that pays homage to Austrian hunting gear is in ultra-light double cashmere. Pashmy leather is a particularly soft, suede-like version with the ambition of cashmere, cut into straight jackets and worn perfectly with jeans.
“It’s about balance, not showing off,” Tamburini said. The series values restraint over spectacle, presence over effect. Materials, tailoring and small construction decisions come into play, emerging gradually rather than all at once. “These clothes don’t chase attention or relevance,” Tamburini said. “They think both will eventually work out their own way.”
