The Sheer Lipstick Trend is a Callback to the ‘90s

When did lipstick stop being unapologetically pigmented? deliberately? The truth is, this didn’t happen in a vacuum—sheer lipsticks have been around for decades, and nostalgia is accelerating their resurgence in 2026. “[Sheer lipsticks] Immediately it reminds me of the feeling of just being kissed and letting go just a little bit, a feeling that defined ’90s beauty,” says Mary Phillips, celebrity makeup artist and founder of m.ph Beauty Fashion.

Consider Clinique’s cult-favorite Dark Honey: the founding mother of sheer lipstick formulas. It’s a blackberry lip product that defined the ’90s look of cool girls like Drew Barrymore and Liv Tyler. While it was launched in its current “Almost Lipstick” form in 1989, its origins can even be traced back to 1971, when Clinique co-founder and Fashion Beauty editor Carol Phillips set out to create what she calls a “black turtleneck” lip color: effortless and universally flattering. “This is a color that you put on and instantly feel chic,” said Christie Sclater, Clinique’s senior vice president of global marketing. Fashion. “It looks slightly different on everyone, which is why it stays relevant and why it continues to resonate with every new generation.” This in-between quality—not quite a lipstick, not quite a lip balm—cements its staying power. When it resurfaced on TikTok a few years ago, nostalgia took over. “It’s become an enduring phenomenon on TikTok, driven by 2000s nostalgia and Gen Z rediscovery,” said Scrat, who noted that a tube of dark honey is sold globally every seven minutes.

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Meanwhile, almost non-existent signs of resurgence have been hiding in plain sight. Violette_FR’s Bisou Jelly became one of 2024’s quiet breakout hits, while Chanel won gold in 2022 with Rouge Coco Baume, quickly cementing its status as the brand’s bestseller. Then there’s Glossier’s Generation G, the intentionally blotchy lipstick that helped define the millennial makeup era and is now officially a decade old. Direct line? Soft focus colors give a lived-in feel rather than a painted look.

It was this gentle versatility, coupled with a yearning for ’90s minimalism, that led Phillips to make sheer lipstick the cornerstone of her ensembles and, ultimately, her namesake brand. One memorable reference point is the iconic scene of Molly Ringwald smearing black honey on screen, although this predates her makeup-loving adolescence or star-studded career. “It shows how sheer lip color can feel effortless and intimate, yet still fully defined. That’s why sheer lip color is important again,” explains Phillips. “Now, everyone is having fun with makeup again, with fewer rules and more expression. Sheer looks can enhance rather than dictate.” She notes that sheer textures can inspire playfulness: They make mixing shades, layering shades, and experimenting approachable—regardless of skill level. In this sense, sheer lipsticks offer shine without being stiff—a flexibility that traditional opaque formulas rarely allow for.

This sentiment aligns perfectly with the dermatology of cosmetics, where skincare-grade ingredients are now expected, all in the pursuit of that elusive, unfinished look. Phillips kept this philosophy in mind when developing his formula, aptly named Lip Ciggy, infused with hyaluronic acid and vitamin E. Meanwhile, Westman Atelier’s recently launched HydroBalm (like last month, recently) is enriched with hyaluronic acid microspheres, peptides, and plant-based butters while imparting subtle yet buildable color. “I love feeling like something is improving my lips,” founder Westman Atelier previously said Fashion. “My lips look younger, feel younger, and the ingredients are great for your lips.”

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