The Tamesis
Tatsuya Tamada has been thinking about power.
“The main thing I want to do with this collection is to give people a better understanding of the Tamme brand,” the designer said during a visit to a showroom in Tokyo. “My sources of design so far have been military and army-style items, military uniforms and formal wear. In other words, uniforms.”
Tamada’s obsession with uniforms dates back to his childhood. When his father came home from fighting crime on the streets of Fukushima, the young boy would marvel at his black boots and light blue work shirt and wonder how discipline could be woven into the fabric. “His appearance represents a righteous person. Looking back, I think that’s probably what made me think he was cool,” Tamada said.
He brought his technical prowess to work, using the pattern-cutting skills he honed at Sacai to design a collection of subversive, military-style patchwork uniforms that were still suitable for everyday wear. A ribbed cricket sweater features contrasting cable knit at the V-neck and a navy zipper down the center, while a beige work jacket is lined in MA1’s safety orange, while what appears to be an indigo trench coat is actually a jacket worn over a tough yet elegant wrap skirt. The best are Japanese police boots with geometric soles and silver front zippers, made in collaboration with Kids Love Gaite, the most eccentric footwear brand in fashion.
A grungy plaid shirt paired with Tamme’s signature loose tie reflects a more casual element. Tailoring, meanwhile, incorporated some disco flair with bold peak collars and baggy trousers. The result is half teenage rebellion, half SWAT team swagger, via a salaryman getting ready to party. “By breaking down, replacing or changing the uniform, you can create your own personality,” he said. “I give each piece its own will, allowing them to be worn and used with complete freedom.”
In our current context, where the uniform and the authority behind it are particularly threatening, Tamada has room to build more of Tamme’s universe. His designs are convincing and thoughtful, but the world around them remains uncertain. As any evil tyrant or hopeful hero knows, clothes alone can only get you so far.
