The Tamesis
When Astrid Andersen launched Stel, she used the catchy phrase “Cuts you can skate” as part of her slogan. This fall, she set out to prove it with this series of photos featuring professional skateboarder Beatrice Domond. In the process, the idea of creating clothes that can move merged with the world’s ways of maneuvering. “I think from a female perspective, this idea of perfection has been with us for a long time,” she said. “When I talk about tailoring designed for skating, it’s really a mindset of freeing up the concept of what clothes should do for us. And I find that we also need to be able to embrace the whole imperfection.”
One of the ways the collection addresses this idea is with an asymmetrical design. The layered pleats popular in spring have been rethought this season, with shirts and tops able to be combined and worn in different ways. Fine silks are cut into practical pieces, and black and white checks break up the solidity. “I don’t want it to be romantic. I want it to be smart in a way, because that’s how I see it [the Stel woman]”Her choice was very logical,” the designer said.
As with all Stel series, most of the pieces are based on prototypes. Among them are bomber jackets, jeans, leggings and shirts that Andersen made herself but would still love to have. Part of the reason is that she’s redefining herself as a trained menswear designer. And then there’s the little matter of modesty. “I’m too Danish to refer to myself,” Anderson says with a laugh about who she designs for. However, lest her modular concepts appear cold or merely functional, a personal perspective would be helpful. Andersen’s heartfelt admiration for Domond’s grace and bravery is translated into the series, making it warmer and more relatable.
