The Tamesis
When Rodarte entered the scene in 2006, romance was their calling card. But beauty was never the end goal for Kate and Laura Mulleavy. Their dark, edgy side began to emerge in their fifth collection for spring 2008, when their spiderweb sweater debuted. Spiders have never been as intimidating to the sisters as they are to Miss Muffet, and the Mulleavy sisters proved they’ve become accomplished arachnologists with a giant tulle-wrapped wire mesh hat from the fall collection.
Delicate, shiny hand-beaded mesh was embedded into the second and final look. The gowns, made from tulle and a variety of Chantilly lace, were the centerpiece of the collection, which Laura explained was about “the idea of webbing and different ways of thinking about it, rather than something about decay or deconstruction.” The opening look matched the lightness of a mesh dress, with a top in ruched chiffon trimmed with lace that folded like a legging, and a hem with cascading ruffles and a languid train.
Another highlight of the collection are dramatic and sculptural dresses made from pleated taffeta. Kate said she was looking for a halfway point between Renaissance and Gothic. This is not a collection of narratives; Instead, it focuses on drape and architecture. Instead of making up stories, the sisters relied on exhale– Inspiring lights set the mood. That’s true, but it doesn’t necessarily take full advantage of the clothing. Talking about the collection, Laura said, “Maybe it’s more like thinking about the great moments of costumes in the movie and the really beautiful lighting.” In fact, the designer’s memory is closely tied to movie legend.
