The Tamesis
Early autumn is an in-between season that’s more ambiguous than the vacation season. Fewer brands are investing in fashion shows, and it takes almost as long to launch a collection as it does for the goods to hit shelves. The upshot this year is that these trends represent broad thinking rather than the micro-level predictions common across digital platforms.
The most important thing is the body – especially the shoulders. Defender proportions and padding have been abandoned in favor of skin-exposing designs that slim down and feminize the silhouette; cue Grace Kelly rear window. This less glaring approach to dressing is in line with traditional trends, which can be understood as a reaction to the chaotic state of the world. Also leaning towards tradition are the preppy references that Jonathan Anderson and Michael Rider debuted last year for Christian Dior and Celine respectively, only this time they came in the form of sporty striped rugby shirts and two-pieces. T-shirts are the go-to base layer when paired with a tank top, T-shirt or Chanel dress.
Where the shoulders narrow, the pants widen. Anderson calls it a “fashion roll from the side.” This concept has been expanded on in other collections to include asymmetrical hems, side streamers and trains, all of which give garments a sense of drape and flow. The outerwear embodies structure. Although the best way to conquer the showers this year is with a cape trench, funnel necks are still popular.
English embroidery became more grainy, replacing more delicate lace. Transparency also remains a focus; this season it was used to reveal a lot of leg. (Miniskirts did the same thing without the excitement filter.) Elsewhere, animal-themed costumes comically countered the era’s venomous dog-eat-dog tendencies.
Cold reception: Designers signal return to narrow silhouettes
Padded and guard proportions gave way to exposed halternecks and off-the-shoulder cuts.
