The Tamesis
Apart from the steady drizzle, the other thing hanging over London this season is an air of retrospection. Throughout the preview, a constant theme emerged from the conversations: a desire to escape the responsibility of “saying something new,” while the city’s designers reflected on the journey they’d taken so far and parsed out what exactly makes their work special. them.
That’s certainly the case with Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding. Their melancholy, however, isn’t due to existential angst, but because this year marks the 15th anniversary of their eponymous brand. “We’re always looking for what makes us special and what we love about our brand,” says Harding, sitting in the airy showroom of Fields Studios in London. “Our focus is ultimately on shaping the garment, starting with the shirt. How do you take something very mundane and often overlooked and turn it into something truly elevated?”
A natural focal point became the brand’s signature shirtdress, a loose and roomy piece distinguished by the golden proportions of its geometric sleeve line, corseted waist and crisp A-line skirt, crafted from heavy cotton poplin. The development of this season began with Palmer meticulously researching the garments, trying to find something resembling a formula for his signature approach to design. What came next, however, turned into something more symbolic. The exploration of wider emotions has defined their work over the past 15 years. “Our mantra from season one has been ‘How do you make 11:00 a.m. on a Tuesday exciting?'” said Palmer.
This collection can be considered a substantial distillation of the duo’s distaste for the logic of reference design. From denim jackets and shirts with horizontal box pleats that extend from the placket to the body and fan out to the sleeves, to the swiveled seam lines that diverge at the hems, the structures are guided by an instinctive understanding of their fabrics and a willingness to challenge their implicit associations through extensive pleat and drape work.
As always, Palmer Harding wardrobes convey an air of distinction and ease. While never alienating, yet classy, these are clothes you’d be happy to wear while lounging around the house or attending appropriate events. More occasion-wear silhouettes feature hidden interiors that create support beneath gorgeous volume, while subtle belts play with proportion.
“I thought that by using these classic-feeling cotton pieces as a base, we could create something really special, but one that could be designed instinctively,” says Palmer. “You know you could pair some of these pieces with jeans, but the outfit would still feel like something“. The collection is a testament to that and to the fact that the designer’s instincts have remained consistent over the past fifteen years. “Ultimately it comes down to bringing a sense of drama to your everyday life,” adds Palmer, which is something to be appreciated in a period that can often feel very gray.
