The Tamesis
Happy first day of Shark Week!
Today, we come to Milan Fashion Week, where Marni’s Meryll Rogge, Fendi’s Maria Grazia Chiuri and the most anticipated Gucci’s Demna all made their debuts. Nicole Phelps; Fashion Francesca Ragazzi, Head of Editorial Content at Italia; and Fashion Contributor Luke Leitch was there to take it all in, and penetrate Just around them.
The question on the Gucci show was: Who is Demna now? After a decade of deconstruction and conceptual provocation at Balenciaga—jackets made from trousers, exaggerated couture pieces wrapped in 50 meters of tulle, and more—the designer steps into one of fashion’s most iconic Italian brands with an eye for the new.
“This is not the same Demna,” Phelps said immediately after the show. “At Balenciaga, he was an experimentalist. That was the foundation.”
“This is definitely a new Gucci,” Leitch added, “and a new Demna.”
Elsewhere at Marni, Meryll Rogge brings her knitwear expertise and genuine emotional connection to the brand: She bought her first pair of Marni platforms with her first paycheck as an assistant at Marc Jacobs, and wore a Marni dress to her brother’s wedding as a teenager.
“She was born to do this job,” Phelps said.
Meanwhile, at Moschino, creative director Adrian Appiolaza returned to his Argentinian roots, finding inspiration in his homeland’s landmarks, monuments and symbols. “Identity is one of the keywords this season in Milan – designers are thinking about who they are and why they are in this industry and really delving into that,” Phelps commented after the show.
Next stop? Paris!
